Silver Lining, 7a+, 130m (6c Oblg)
Our story
2026 — February & March
After repeating some of the classic routes at Pentadaktylos, we first had the idea in 2024 to open something new — a line up the biggest face, where there are striking and unclimbed features. Back then, we backed off. It felt a bit too intimidating, our gut said no, so we left — with a big goal in mind, just not yet.
February the following year we returned, this time with a bit more confidence after building up more mileage on adventure climbs. We picked one of those obvious lines — a series of cracks and corners leading into a beautiful dihedral — and started. From below, the big central face looked fairly clean and not too vegetated. We began ground up, following the natural features, placing gear where possible and bolts where necessary.
Pitch 1 immediately turned out to be amazing. A series of vertical cracks with great flow from bottom to top. The crux comes right at the end, pulling into the first stance — a great opening pitch!
But as we got higher, we spotted something we hadn’t seen from below (the binoculars we have now — a birthday present two months later — would have helped a lot…). An old rusty peg, then some bolts, coming in from the left and joining our line before continuing upwards.
After a bit of discussion, we decided to try the next pitch anyway. The bolts were still in decent condition, so we followed them, quickly realising this pitch would be quite hard. At that point, unsure how to continue — and now knowing the line wasn’t entirely untouched — we decided to leave it for the time being and track down the bolter. After some asking around, we found him: Andreas Theofanous. He had also been drawn to the beautiful dihedral higher up, but hadn’t continued past pitch 2. It took a bit of coordination, but eventually in Mid March the three of us found a day to go back together.
The plan changed slightly — instead of continuing from below, we climbed a neighbouring route with all the gear and the drill, topped out, and approached the dihedral from above. Abseiling down and equipping it on the way, it quickly became clear: this would potentially be the hardest pitch of the route.
Unfortunately Theofanous had to leave early that day, but gave us the green light to continue. So we stayed, planning to link everything the next day.
Meanwhile, Cyprus decided it was summer — in mid-March. The next day we climbed in shorts and t-shirts, repeated pitch 1, worked on pitch 2, and started opening pitch 3. Psyche was high. And then… the drill bit gave up. The rock at Pentadaktylos is no joke, and after going through three bits in two days, we were out. So we left — and went for a swim — already wondering if the window for the season was closing.
And it did. 2025 didn’t really bring a proper winter, and the route had to wait.
2026 — March & April
Back again, finally.
Full of psyche, we started from the bottom. Pitch 3 needed a lot of cleaning — some fridge-sized blocks had to go. Still a mixed pitch with gear and bolts. And then we arrived below pitch 4. The big question mark.
With a mix of excitement and doubt (will this even go?), we started working the moves. Slowly it began to feel possible. Climbing the final pitch on trad gear, we topped out just in time to get to the rappel and get down before dark.
Decision made: stay overnight and try to climb the route properly the next day.
But… the psyche of the day masked how tired we actually were. The next morning, over coffee, we made the hard call to leave once again. One more pause. One more wait for the right conditions.
And somehow, they came.
While Cyprus turned into a green paradise, we got a perfect weather window for an attempt on the 1st of April. Cloud cover all day — almost unheard of. So we went for it.
Pitch 1 — smooth, as expected (still such a good pitch).
Pitch 2 — the first real test.
We hung the draws and gave it a go. Andreas sent it first try. I fell on my first go, lowered, reset… and then with a lot of squeezing and effort, sent it on the second. Buzzing. Pame!
Pitch 3 — now cleaned — turned into a really enjoyable, technical pitch with varied movement.
And then we were back under pitch 4.
Andreas went first, carefully working his way up the technical dihedral, resting under the roof, then committing to the exit. When he clipped the stance — we were both already celebrating.
My turn. Fully focused, trying to stay composed. One moment where I nearly lost it… but stayed on. And then grabbing that final jug at the exit — just pure happiness. Such a good feeling! We both freed the last hard pitch!
As we organised the gear, it started to drizzle. No time to hang around — we kept moving, both freed the last pitch and topped out, clouds rolling in around us.
Free climbing our first own route on Pentadaktylos — after all the attempts, delays, and setbacks — felt pretty special.
We celebrated a bit at the top, fully in the clouds. Then we pulled out our banana suits — because there is always time for a bit of shenanigans. What a day!
Silver Lining got its name from the slightly chaotic time we’ve all been living through — in Cyprus and across the world. A reminder that even in uncertain moments, there’s always something good somewhere. Sometimes you just have to stick with it long enough to find it. And also not get too carried away with all the madness — create your own little bubble, don’t take life too seriously, and have some fun.
We hope others will go up there, climb it, and enjoy it as much as we did.
Route Description
1st Pitch: 7a, 30m
Climb the obvious crack system up the white wall, with some good gear and occasionally bolts.
2nd Pitch: 7a+, 12m
Continue in the corner crack system with plenty of bolts, the last two bolts are rather hard to clip, be prepared to either skip or hang the quickdraws beforehand.
3rd Pitch: 6b, 25m
What a masterpiece, pure joy all the way, some gear, some bolts and lots of fun flowy climbing.
4th Pitch: 7a, 15m
Here we are, you made it to the grand pitch, sharpen your shoes and hold your breath. Follow the obvious line!
5th Pitch: 6c, 50m
A hard pull low at the start of the pitch leads to an easier finish to the top of the face, the existing anchor used from the line coming from the left.
Descent
From the top of the fifth pitch, continue the ridge scramble to the very top of the fourth finger, we recommend staying roped up while scrambling. From the summit, three 50m abseils will get you down to the base of the face. Rappel station just over the lip toward the south face. Note that you might come across some other stations, we recommend the one from the top.
Approach
Depending on where you park, you will have to make your way up the small terraces up the fourth finger, usually takes about 20 minutes. Aim for the white wall, straight forward!
Gear
– Two 50 m ropes
– Full set of cams size 0.3 to size 1
– 10 quickdraws